Weinstein is a man who takes his treats seriously. Although his instructions are sometimes too sober for the subject matter and require some commitment, the ice creams, sorbets, sweet and savory granitas, toppings and drinks are served up with flair. There are roughly 70 recipes for ice cream, each with a number of variations, and several dozen more for sorbets. On the conservative end are four recipes for plain old vanilla and three for chocolate. For the sophisticate, there are ice creams flavored with thyme, lavender and Earl Grey tea, as well as tempting varieties using less common fruits such as fig, passion fruit, mango and rhubarb. Mix-in ideas abound with such concoctions as Ginger Ice Cream with bits of candied chestnuts, Classic Mint Chip with mini chocolate chips or Cashew Ice Cream topped with Trail Mix made by adding coconut, sunflower seeds and raisins. Weinstein even offers main course ideas: How about floating a scoop of avocado in a gazpacho soup or freeing borscht into a granita? To top things off, he provides recipes for hot fudge and other toppings, as well as for black cows and sodas that will turn any kitchen into a soda fountain. July)